The Cultural Evolution of Eyeliner Around the World

by Lea Payette
6 minutes read

Have you ever paused to wonder why the simple stroke of a pencil or brush across the eyelid holds such power across cultures and centuries? Eyeliner is far more than just a beauty tool—it’s a storyteller, a symbol, and a cultural icon that has evolved dramatically around the world. From ancient rituals to modern runways, the way people adorn their eyes reveals deep social meanings and artistic innovation that cross borders and generations.

Ancient Origins and Symbolism

Eyeliner’s history stretches back more than 6,000 years, rooted deeply in the civilizations of ancient Egypt and Mesopotamia. The dark kohl that framed the eyes of pharaohs was much more than decoration—it was believed to protect against the evil eye and reduce glare from the sun. The iconic almond-shaped eye look, immortalized in hieroglyphs and tomb paintings, speaks volumes about how eyeliner symbolized power, spirituality, and social status.

This early use laid a foundation for eyeliner as a symbol of protection and mystique in human culture, weaving together practical benefits and spiritual beliefs. The same sense of power and identity continues to define eyeliner’s place in beauty traditions worldwide.

Middle East and North Africa: The Art of Khol

In the Middle East and North Africa, kohl remains an enduring beauty and health staple. Traditionally made from galena, a natural mineral, kohl lines the eyes in thick, dramatic shapes that enhance gaze intensity. Beyond aesthetics, kohl historically served medicinal purposes, believed to improve eyesight and protect the eyes from infections and the sun.

Kohl carries strong cultural and religious symbolism as well. In many communities, it is applied to newborns and children to ward off evil spirits. The boldness of the kohl varies by region, from thin, elegant lines to thick, winged shapes, reflecting local customs and individual identity.

Fascinatingly, the centuries-old practice continues today—not only with traditional kohl sticks but also in modern liquid liners. Its influence is seen globally in makeup trends that echo these signature East African and Arabian techniques.

South Asia: Tradition Meets Modern Glam

In South Asia, eyeliner goes by the name kajal or kohl and is intricately tied to cultural customs, especially for women and children. Applied on both upper and lower eyelids, kajal is often made from soot mixed with herbal ingredients. Like its Middle Eastern counterpart, it is believed to possess protective qualities for the wearer.

The use of kajal spans beyond everyday wear—it’s a vital part of celebrations and rituals. Brides, for instance, often sport highly stylized kajal looks emphasizing their eyes on their wedding day. However, South Asia also exemplifies how eyeliner adapts to changing beauty narratives; urban and younger generations blend traditional styles with contemporary makeup trends to create bold, hybrid looks that balance elegance and modernity.

East Asia: Minimalism and Precision

In East Asia, eyeliner tends toward a more minimalist, refined application. Cultures such as Japan, South Korea, and China often favor subtle definition that enhances the natural eye shape rather than dramatizing it.

Korean beauty, for example, emphasizes soft lines and shaded eyeliners, creating a youthful, innocent appearance known as the “aegyo sal” effect—highlighting the small flesh under the eyes. This contrasts with the Western thick liner trend, focusing more on enhancing natural beauty and achieving a dewy, flawless skin look.

Precision tools like fine-tipped pencils and liquid liners play a significant role in East Asian makeup artistry. The cultural preference leans toward delicate detail, reflecting broader values of subtlety and balance in aesthetic presentation.

African Cultural Expressions

Africa’s vast cultural tapestry brings diverse eyeliner styles that serve as vibrant markers of identity and community. Among the Berber and Tuareg women of North Africa, for example, striking black lines often extend beyond the eyes, blending with tattoo-like facial markings to tell stories of lineage and belonging.

In Sub-Saharan Africa, eyeliner usage varies from region to region. In some communities, the eyes are outlined with charcoal or locally made pigments during ceremonial events. These styles often feature symbolism connected to rites of passage, beauty ideals, or social hierarchies.

Distinctive facial art—sometimes incorporating dots, lines, or geometric shapes around the eyes—transcends mere makeup, becoming a language through which identity, spirituality, and beauty are proudly expressed.

In Western culture, eyeliner’s journey has been shaped by centuries of fashion revolutions. From the Victorian era’s subtle use to the dramatic cat eyes of the 1950s and 1960s, eyeliner became a canvas for individualism and rebellion.

The 1920s flapper girls redefined eyeliner with thick, smoky eyes, corresponding to a broader social shift toward freedom and self-expression for women. Later decades saw icons like Twiggy and Brigitte Bardot popularize winged liner, lending an edgy yet feminine aura.

In recent years, the fusion of global beauty styles has led to an eclectic eyeliner landscape. Elements from kohl’s intensity, South Asia’s tradition, and East Asia’s finesse have intermixed on runways and social media, inspiring people everywhere to experiment.

This cultural blending is an exciting example of how beauty products become extensions of a global dialogue, transcending borders and redefining personal style.

Tip

Experiment with different eyeliner styles inspired by cultures worldwide to find the look that resonates with your personality. For example, try a subtle East Asian-inspired tightline or channel the dramatic Middle Eastern kohl for boldness.

Making Eyeliner Your Own: Tips and Reflections

Eyeliner’s power lies in its versatility—it can be a subtle enhancement or a bold statement. Regardless of cultural origin, choosing your eyeliner style becomes a form of self-expression and storytelling.

Here are some tips to embrace your unique eyeliner journey:

  • Understand your eye shape: Different shapes suit different liner styles. For instance, almond eyes can wear both winged and smudged looks effortlessly.
  • Choose the right formula: Gel, liquid, pencil, or kohl each offers distinct textures and finishes. Gel liners provide a soft, blendable effect, while liquids deliver crisp, sharp lines.
  • Practice layering: Build thickness gradually to avoid mistakes and create depth.
  • Incorporate cultural inspirations thoughtfully: Explore styles that resonate but adapt them to your taste and lifestyle.

Most of all, remember that eyeliner is a tool, not a rule. It can enhance mood, highlight features, or deepen a look—whatever feels most authentic for you.

Frequently Asked Questions

Is eyeliner safe for everyday use?
When used correctly and with quality products, eyeliner is safe. Avoid sharing applicators to prevent infections, and remove makeup thoroughly before bedtime to protect eye health.

How did eyeliner become so popular worldwide?
Eyeliner’s use in ancient cultures for symbolism and protection paved the way for its aesthetic evolution. Global communication and fashion cycles have popularized and adapted eyeliner styles across continents.

What types of eyeliner are best for sensitive eyes?
Hypoallergenic and fragrance-free formulations, such as creamy pencils or mineral-based liners, often work best. Patch testing before use is recommended.

At its heart, eyeliner is a timeless art form—a rhythm of lines tracing back millennia and spanning continents. Whether it’s protecting the soul in ancient Egypt, signaling identity in West Africa, or defining the chic looks of modern cities, eyeliner offers a fascinating glance into how cultures communicate through beauty.

Embrace this rich evolution next time you pick up your liner brush and consider the stories your eyes can tell.

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